There are various ways you can define an Audiophile, either as a badge of honor, a self-proclaimed title, a derogatory term for a snob who has tons of money to waste, as you’ll find so on the interweb. Even among audiophiles, this judgment is present, and more strongly so, as the snobs will themselves consider many within the community to be audio-fools rather than audiophiles, regressing the irony further.

So what is an audiophile? And what is my part in all of this? And why am I bothering the readers with an introduction to this niche community?

An Audiophile, in the truest sense, is someone who enjoys or is obsessed with accurate sound reproduction, mostly applied to the music industry. The simple point is that in the process of production of music to consumption of it, we tend to miss out on details either from induced noise and distortion, poor equipment, compression, and so on. This post is an entry to this strange world so that anyone can benefit from the wisdom of the community with the least amount of foolery. I consider myself an audiophile simply because of my love of music, and I don’t mind spending at least some money more than average to enjoy one of the great joys of life. I have spent months going through various audiophile communities, and I can say enough to give my opinion which might help you understand the rationality and the irrationality of the community.

Disclosure: The world of Audiophiles is a slippery slope, and one can simply fall into the cycle of getting more equipment than needed, and this is not an exaggeration. So I suggest not going very deep into it, unless you are a music producer, or have lakhs of rupees to spend.

So let’s start with the basics, which starts with the physics of sound. The sound is generated by the rapid compression and decompression of air molecules, which have a frequency. This vibration takes the form of a wave. Our voice to the drums to strings of a guitar and all instruments work on this principle. The sound wave reaches our ear-drums or a microphone, which vibrates accordingly to the compressions of air, producing electric signals, leading to our perception of the sound. The average human ear can hear frequencies from 20 Hertz to 20,000 Hertz.

The Source

In the studio, the music produced is picked up by high-quality microphones, and electrically stored as .wav files, and recorded into various storage devices such as the vinyl or cassette in analog form. These .wav files are raw files and usually are suited for studio mixing and remastering since each wave file can be massive, and unpractical for portable use.

The analog wave is then converted into a digital format and compressed using various technologies. The most popular one is, of course, the mp3 file, which is an example of lossy compression. The basic point is that the algorithm for an mp3 file simply cuts out all frequencies below and beyond the human range, and masks out other, usually inaudible or barely audible sounds to present a file of magnitudes of smaller size. The mp3 files also differ in the amount of information cut from the original file, and while the ubiquitous 128 kbps is fine for streaming services, the 320 kbps is larger and more applicable for critical listening.

Audiophiles usually prefer the analog reproduction though if possible, that is the vinyl, or the DVD of an album, for digital music, they prefer lossless conversion formats such as .flac files, which are much larger than an mp3 file but retains all of the subsonic and supersonic frequencies.

Verdict #1 – I suggest that if one doesn’t have high fidelity audio equipment, and just wants to do some casual listening then low bit rate mp3s are fine. But I highly suggest that for critical listening and using good audio equipment, 320 kbps mp3 files and FLAC files are a must, at least for the albums you really love, and the classics such as Kind of Blue by Miles Davis or The Dark Side of the Moon by Pink Floyd. I would expand a bit more on this when I come to equipment. 

The Reproduction 

The next part is the reverse. Now we need to convert the digital files stored on your smartphone or laptop to your equipment. I will focus on headphones for this post since they offer the highest fidelity in the least amount of money and convenience. The vinyl or the DVDs usually have to be used with a hi-fi stereo system, which I might do in another post. There are three parts to reproduction.

Digital to Analog conversion – Speakers are reverse microphones. They receive electric signals and a diaphragm vibrates, compressing the air and producing sound. It’s obvious that your speakers don’t read 0s and 1s as what your computer stores the files as. All smartphones and laptops have a built-in DAC, called a Digital to Analog converter. In India, we simply call them sound cards. Now though your onboard DAC is usually good enough for casual listening, when listening to high-quality files with high-quality equipment, we can run into some trouble.

A really good headphone can pick up frequency ranges a lot larger than our hearing capability. Coupled with a good quality source file, a lesser quality DAC will reproduce signals which would have induced noise and distortion, which would be easily picked up by your headphones, hampering your experience. The point is that in the analog to digital conversion by studios, it is obvious they use the highest quality equipment to prevent noise and distortion, but the reproduction of the reverse is our responsibility to bear. However, this is contentious because the modern day onboard DACs are improving in quality so that external DAC which are cheaper might go redundant. So unless you have really good headphones, the DAC can be thought about over time, depending on your satisfaction with the music.

Headphones

Coming to the most important part of the audiophile discussion. Let’s start with the basics of types of Headphones. I’m going to assume that the fit is of the over the ears variety which offers the best in terms of comfort and quality, with portability being the trade-off. But before that, we need to go through some basic terminologies used in the world of head-fi.

Open vs Closed – Open back headphones have ear cups which are covered by grills on the outer side, which effectively means that your headphones are no longer isolated from the outside world. This means that not only will the sound of your headphones leak outside, but you won’t be insulated from the outside environment at all. Closed back headphones are fully covered on the outside, providing the necessary isolation.

So why would anyone buy open backed headphones? Well, they are open for a reason. The openness of the cans gives you an airy and a more natural feel towards the music. It provides scope for a much larger soundstage as if one is hearing to the music live. The closed back as is obvious, provides isolation, doesn’t disturb others, and is usually stated to have scope for a larger bass response than the open cans.

Sound Signature – Every headphone sounds different, but for an audiophile, it is imperative to know what the difference is, and what the music should really sound like. Now it is known that most cheap earphones and some branded cough Beats cough headphones are geared towards bass. Audiophiles have two issues regarding this. It is not that Audiophiles don’t love their bass, but the bass from cheap quality sets is what is called a muddy bass, or uncontrolled bass. Audiophiles love the tightness in their music, and a controlled bass even though less in magnitude, is high in quality. The second is that Audiophiles by definition, want a neutral sound signature. The easiest way to visualize this is that each headphone has its own adjusted Equalizer settings, which one can’t change. This invisible equalizer is the sound signature. When the equalizer is flat or off, we deem it as neutral, which many of us might know can seem boring to the untrained, but over time, one extracts a purer sound, just as the artists wanted us to hear it. Audiophiles though are not always interested in listening to music critically or analytically, pointing out each individual notes, and hence there are also V-shaped signature phones, which means an elevated bass and treble response, which is more fatiguing to the ear but much more fun.

 Driver Technology – There are three technologies through which sound is reproduced. The most popular ones mostly in all headphones below Rs. 30,000 are dynamic drivers. There is also a planar magnetic technology, which is heavy and offers much warmer and powerful bass response, and at the highest levels are electrostatic headphones, which use capacitive technology and need extremely high voltages to drive them.

Frequency Response – Though humans have a hearing range of 20 Hz to 20kHz, premium headphones offer a frequency response from 5 Hz to 40 kHz. When one hears a lossless file, the waves corresponding to such frequencies are not truncated, and premium headphones do pick these waves up. This means that even if a bass frequency is more than 20 Hz, there might be a layered sound picked up from premium headphones. These are not necessarily audible, but subjectively it almost always makes a difference. Powerful headphones also pick up the faintest of sounds one might have never heard due to either a colored response, where the bass, mids, and trebles are off balance. A neutral headphone then would not sacrifice that background rhythm guitar or percussion for the vocals (usually mids or lower treble). Almost all audiophile headphones have a generated frequency response curve which can be googled and depending on one’s preferences and genres.

Miscellaneous – One major aspect of audiophile headphones that cannot be overlooked are the impedance parameters of the headphones. Now impedance is simply the resistance of the coils to the electric current, and hence impedance is measured in Ohms. The lower the impedance, the easier it is to pass the current or to drive the headphones, which means it becomes easier to power them, by even a smartphone. However, many audiophile and monitoring headphones come in high impedance parameters since they are meant for use in studio mixing or equipment which have a built-in amplifier so that a lower impedance would result in the headphones being driven too easily. A kind of analogy might be driving a car on a lower gear to a higher gear. The low geared car if over accelerated will put stress on the engine and even total it. For optimum performance, the right shifting needs to be done. High impedance headphones usually above 100 ohms will be underpowered through a smartphone or a laptop, and produce poor quality low volume output. Such headphones require a dedicated headphone amplifier is used with a portable device, which will give justice to their price.

The second aspect is the soundstage. When we hear through normal headphones, it feels as if the sound is being played inside our head. But audiophile headphones, especially open backed ones have a soundstage so that when you hear through the headphones, it gives an illusion as if the sound is coming through actual speakers, with spatial effects for each instrument, and it feels that the sound is coming from around our head. This is much more fun, and also helps one to precisely pinpoint each instrument playing rather than a muddled mess, and hence suited for analytical or critical listening.

MY VERDICT  

I think most aspects at least for the beginner audiophile has been covered, and this section will fill out the practical gaps. The most important thing which is reiterated on all genuine audiophile forums is that you can be one at ANY BUDGET. So this will be a list of my recommendations at every budget point. The Audiophile hobby is a lifelong one, and though there are impulses to buy better amps or headphones, I would suggest the orthodox audiophile journey.

You would need at least one pair of Earphones, and one set of open backed and one set of closed back headphones. At the beginner stage, you can start with earphones and one closed cans. Only buy Amps when you reach the second stage of beginner audiophiles, and perhaps DACs when you reach the mid-fi stage.

Earphones/IEMs

Starting Game

This is the sub 1k genre, this is what the audio enthusiasts start with, and the good news is that even in this group, one can find earphones with noticeable quality improvements over stock buds. I think that it’s not worthwhile to get Sennheiser or Sony products at this range, and from the countless earphones I’ve tried, I’d recommend getting a Soundmagic e18, Creative ep 630 or JBLs.

Mid Game

This should be your default setting unless one is really into earphones. The RHA S500, Beyerdynamic Byron, Sennheiser CX series, Soundmagic e10, e50 or e80 are some of the best in this category. Try to look for an earphone with lots of ear tips, good warranty, sturdy build and tangle free cables.

End Game

I am yet to reach this stage, but someday I’ll definitely think of getting some Shure’s IEMs which definitely would be my endgame. Please skip Bose products which are only good for sound cancellation. If you’re really into it, I would suggest having a look at Audeze’s IEMs

Closed Cans 

Starting Game

I highly recommend starting with Audio Technica’s M40xs, and rather than buying the more popular M50xs, you can use m40xs with some HM5 pads and have a better product. The m40x is much more neutral, and the pads very comfortable, unlike the fatiguing comfort and in your face bass and treble of the m50s.

Mid Game

If one has decided to keep two headphones, I highly recommend having a look at the Beyerdynamic dt770 pros, which come in three versions. Skip the 32 ohms one. These are a unique set of cans and offer excellent comfort, both in weight and the pads. One of the most comfortable headphones I’ve owned, and though these are studio monitor headphones, these have a V-shaped sound, but the Bass is amazingly awesome. I have not heard a better bass response on my electronic or Heavy Metal tracks and is very much controlled. The 80 ohms are the ones I recommend since they offer a better bass and slightly less treble. The 250 ohms’ version is the more standard one for recording, but it has, even more, treble in a phone already high in it, which can be piercing to some ears. The 600 ohms’ version would require HUGE amplification, and I won’t recommend that, though all three versions require a dedicated amp, the 80 ohms version can do with an entry level amp like the fiio e10k.

End Game

Again still I’m stuck in the mid-fi category, I’m more than happy with these closed cans, and would perhaps only upgrade my open set. The Beyerdynamic dt1770 has been released and has all the goods of the dt770s with so much more.

Open Cans

Starting Game

Now we come to the Sennheisers, who specialize in open cans. The Sennheiser HD series are some of the most neutral and amazing headphones you can buy. I highly recommend buying the HD598 Special edition series, or other variants in Sennheiser’s HD 5xx series if you can get them for cheap. The HD598 is THE MOST COMFORTABLE HEADPHONE I’VE EVER PUT ON. The sound is balanced, the bass isn’t too bad, the mids are exceptional, and the trebles are high but not as much as the Beyers. You can listen to them for hours without fatigue and can be driven without an amp, though a fiio can definitely help. Try to get a used one since these are the ones you’ll want to upgrade, I know I would, now I’ve tasted the truth of true audiophile sound.

Mid Game

The Philips Fidelio X2 series are some of the highest recommended phones. But my lifetime mid-fis would be again, the Sennheisers. Now the Sennheiser HD 600 and HD 650 are LEGENDARY headphones. Audio is something which suffers from diminishing returns, so when you buy a decent headphone from a cheap one, there is usually a world of difference, but the more money you keep on throwing, the difference would be marginal, and ultimately just a different type of sound, so it’s your decision on finding the optimal stopping point. But even if the HD600 and HD650s might offer a 15% improvement over the already stellar HD598s, then, why not? Given that they come at the same price as Bose’s QC35, which is at the same price, or even hi-fi systems, one can definitely get some exceptionally good headphones at the price. Maybe I’m biased. But these are notorious for their high (300 ohms) impedance and require some god research(not a typo) on the amps which will drive them, though you can’t go wrong with a Schiit stack(pronounced SHIT).

End Game

LOL. I don’t know. I’ve reserved my endgame to a distant point in life as of now. But if I were given a gift to choose, Beyerdynamic T1, Sennheiser HD800 S, Hifiman 1000, Audeze LCD 3s, Stax, etc. If you’re willing to spend in this range( a lakh or more I’ll assume you already know much more than me), so enjoy, and yes, I understand you, unless you’re spending your dad’s money on them, then tch tch. Buy your beats.

Online communities such as Reddit’s Headphone community, Head-fi, ZeosPantera reviews have a lot of details if you’re interested in further research.

Amplifier

 Amplifiers are present in all stereo sound systems. Whenever there is equipment dealing with high impedances, as in any high-quality system described above, the output current is low means the volume would not be sufficient to do the headphones justice. There are, of course, digital amplifier programs on your computer, but akin to a physical amplifier being like an optical zoom, the digital one is digital zoom, and we all know how digital zoom distorts the photograph. Same with sound. Dedicated Headphone amps would help get the proper juice (read power) to your headphones by amplifying the sound wave without distortion. Nothing much needs to be said for amps other than the usual rule of thumb so here it goes.

MY VERDICT

The Fiio e10k is an integrated DAC and amp which would suit the id fi game, until you deal with the Sennheiser 600 and above, after which you would require a much better amp. The only upgrade I can suggest which I think would not be wasteful is the popular Schiit Stack, that is the Schiit Modi amp and the Schiit Magni DAC. Tube amps are beyond my stage at present, but I shall keep updating.

Conclusion

Even at such a length, I’ve barely scratched the surface of Audiophilia, but at least now you can jump on the boat. From my analysis, the basic setup shall do you just fine for years until you upgrade or even if you don’t, they’re awesome enough.

Audiophile Starter kit 

Soundmagic E10c earphones – Rs. 1400

Audio Technica- ATH m40x closed headphones – Rs 7000(with hm5 pads- 8000)

Sennheiser hd598s – Rs. 8000

Fiio E10k DAC+AMP –  Rs. 5000

Approximately Rs. 23,000 will give you one of the best investments you can make if you love music.